What Types of Pomade Are There? – Oil-Based, Water-Based, and UWB Explained
Today, pomade is available in numerous varieties. The most important differences lie in composition, hold, shine, pliability, and washability.
Pomades can generally be divided into three main categories:
- oil-based pomades
- water-based pomades
- unorthodox water-based pomades (UWB)
Each of these types of pomade has different properties and is suitable for different styling preferences, hairstyles, and hair types.
Pomade Types Compared
| Pomade Type | Hold | Shine | Pliability | Washability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oil-Based | soft to very firm | low to high | highly flexible and recombable at any time | more difficult |
| Water-Based | medium to very firm | usually medium to high | often hardens like a gel | usually very easy, with water alone |
| UWB | light to very firm | matte to shiny | flexible and usually easy to recomb | easy (with a little shampoo) |
The exact properties can vary depending on the formula. For example, there are soft, oil-based pomades with high shine as well as very firm varieties with less shine. UWB pomades are also available in numerous levels of firmness and finishes.
Oil-Based Pomade – The Classic Origin
Oil-based pomades are the classic form of pomade. They had a defining influence on classic men’s hairstyling, particularly from the 1920s to the 1950s, and remain an integral part of traditional pomade culture to this day.
Typical ingredients in oil-based pomades include:
- petroleum jelly (petrolatum)
- beeswax or microcrystalline wax
- lanolin (wool wax)
- conditioning oils such as coconut oil or castor oil
Typical properties include:
- flexible hold without hardening completely
- recombable at any time
- resistant to moisture and perspiration
- long-lasting styling
- low to intense shine, depending on the formula
Because oil-based pomades are water-repellent, they often cannot be removed completely with a single hair wash. However, many users appreciate precisely this so-called build-up: some of the pomade remains in the hair and provides the foundation for a new style the next day. As a result, less fresh product is often required.
Oil-based pomades are especially suitable for classic hairstyles such as Slick Back, Pompadour, and Side Part.
Water-Based Pomade – The Modern Alternative
Water-based pomades are modern pomades formulated with water. The classic varieties, also known as water-based pomades, often behave like hair gel: they are easy to distribute, provide reliable hold, and harden in the hair as they dry. Restyling is barely possible or possible only to a limited extent.
Typical ingredients include:
- water (Aqua)
- PVP, copolymers, or silicones for hold
- glycerin as a humectant
- fragrances and other conditioning additives
Typical properties include:
- reliable, often firm hold
- usually medium to high shine
- gel-like hardening in the hair
- easy application
- usually very easy to wash out
Water-based pomades are especially suitable for daily use and for users who want reliable hold but also want to wash the styling product out as easily as possible in the evening.
Unorthodox Water-Based Pomade (UWB)
Unorthodox water-based pomades, or UWB for short, combine the properties of classic oil-based pomades with the advantages of modern water-based formulas.
Unlike orthodox water-based pomades, they do not normally harden completely. This keeps the hair more flexible and allows it to be reshaped with the hands or a comb throughout the day.
Typical ingredients include:
- water
- waxes
- oils or fats
- emulsifiers that bind the water-based and oil-based ingredients
Typical properties include:
- flexible hold
- does not harden
- hairstyles remain restylable
- available in different levels of shine
- washable with shampoo
UWB pomades are especially suitable for users who prefer the flexible styling feel of a classic pomade while also valuing easier washability.
Which Pomade Is Right for You?
Choosing the right pomade depends on several factors:
- hair type and density
- hair length
- desired hold
- desired level of shine
- hairstyle and styling technique
- desired washability
Those who prefer classic, flexible styling and the possibility of build-up often choose an oil-based pomade. A water-based pomade is usually suitable for firm hold and particularly easy washability. A UWB is a good choice when flexibility and straightforward washing are both desired.
You can find more information about choosing the right pomade in the Pomade Academy.
PomadeShop – Pomade Expertise Since 2008
PomadeShop brought pomade back to Europe. Since its founding in 2008, PomadeShop has been deeply involved with classic hair styling products, modern barbershop culture, and the history of pomade.
Founder Stan Soldan is regarded as one of the foremost pomade experts in the German-speaking world and is the author of the first German-language specialist book about pomade—“Das Pomadebuch”.
Today, PomadeShop offers one of Europe’s largest selections of pomades—from classic oil-based pomades to modern water-based pomades and barbershop styling products.