Pompadour – the Iconic Rock ’n’ Roll Hairstyle

The pompadour is one of the best-known classic hairstyles in the world. Its defining feature is the voluminous front section, which is styled upwards and then swept back in a curved shape.

The men’s pompadour became particularly famous through musicians, actors, and the youth cultures of the 1950s. To this day, it remains closely associated with rock ’n’ roll, rockabilly, and classic barbershop culture.

A pompadour can be worn sleek and elegant, tall and striking, or modern and relaxed. Pomade gives the hairstyle hold, definition, and shine, while a blow-dryer and brush create the necessary volume.

History of the Pompadour

The hairstyle takes its name from Madame de Pompadour, the influential mistress of the French King Louis XV. The term was later used for various hairstyles in which the hair is raised above the forehead and shaped backwards.

At the beginning of the 20th century, voluminous pompadour hairstyles were worn primarily by women. During the 1940s and 1950s, the shape was increasingly adopted for men’s hairstyles and combined with shorter sides, a pronounced quiff, and shiny pomade.

During the rock ’n’ roll era, the pompadour became a symbol of youthful style and confidence. Musicians such as Elvis Presley helped make the voluminous, swept-back hairstyle famous around the world.

Characteristics of a Pompadour

• long, voluminous front section
• hair is directed upwards and then backwards
• curved, clearly defined shape above the forehead
• sleek, combed, or intentionally loosely textured surface
• short sides or sides that are also combed back
• natural to high shine, depending on the variation

Short sides are not an essential feature of the classic pompadour. In traditional variations, the sides are often worn longer and combed back. Modern pompadours, by contrast, are frequently combined with a taper, fade, or undercut.

What Hair Length Does a Pompadour Require?

For a clearly defined pompadour, the hair on top should generally be at least around eight to twelve centimetres long. The front section can be even longer, as it is needed to create the hairstyle’s characteristic height and rounded shape.

The following are helpful:

• a longer front section
• hair on top that is long enough to transition smoothly towards the back
• a graduated or cleanly blended haircut
• a blow-dryer and suitable brush for building volume
• a pomade suited to your hair type and the desired height

A shorter pompadour is also possible, but it will have less height and a more compact front section. The key is that the hair at the forehead can be lifted upwards and then shaped backwards.

Which Hair Types Are Suitable for a Pompadour?

Which Pomade Is Suitable for a Pompadour?

The pomade must control the hair without unnecessarily weighing down the volume created beforehand. The most suitable type of pomade depends on the hair type and desired finish.

A very heavy pomade may be unsuitable for fine hair because it can cause the volume to collapse again. Thick or unruly hair, by contrast, often requires a firm or very firm pomade.

How to Style a Pompadour – Step by Step

Step 1 – Prepare the Hair

Wash or dampen your hair and then towel-dry it. It should still be slightly damp, but not wet. Comb through the hair completely and remove any tangles.

A hair tonic, grooming tonic, or another lightweight prestyler can make the hair more manageable and help build volume.

Step 2 – Blow-Dry for Volume

For a tall pompadour, the blow-dryer is more important than a large amount of pomade. Lift the hair on top at the roots with a brush and first blow-dry it upwards. Then guide the hair backwards in a curved motion.

Focus particularly on the front section. Blow-dry it upwards against its natural direction of growth and then back. This creates the basic shape that will later be defined with pomade.

Step 3 – Scoop Out and Warm Up the Pomade

Start by scooping out only a small amount of pomade and rub it thoroughly between your palms and fingers. Firm oil-based pomades in particular become softer from the warmth of your hands and are then easier to distribute.

It is better to use several small portions than one large amount at once. Too much product can weigh the hair down and reduce the volume created beforehand.

Step 4 – Apply the Pomade

Start by working the pomade into the hair from the back of the head towards the front. Distribute the product evenly from roots to ends, rather than applying it only to the visible surface.

Then run your hands through the hair from front to back. Try to preserve the pre-shaped basic form as much as possible.

Step 5 – Comb the Hair on Top Backwards

Comb the sides and the rear section of the hair on top neatly backwards. Begin with the wide teeth of the comb so that the volume is not completely flattened.

Guide the hair on top backwards without pressing the front section flat against the head. At this point, the hairstyle should already reveal its approximate silhouette.

Step 6 – Lift and Shape the Front Section

First comb the front section forwards. Then place your free hand in front of the hair and guide the comb from front to top and backwards. Your hand helps to shape the pompadour’s characteristic curve.

Carefully repeat this movement until the desired height and curve have been achieved. Small irregularities can be corrected with the tip or fine teeth of the comb.

Step 7 – Refine the Finish

Carefully smooth the surface with the comb without pressing out the volume. Refine the contours and sides neatly. Flyaway hairs can be laid down with a very small additional amount of pomade.

For additional shine, a small amount of soft pomade can be applied over the surface of a firmer pomade as a final step.

Pompadour Variations

• Classic Pompadour: longer sides, a sleek surface, and a well-groomed shine.
• Rockabilly Pompadour: pronounced height, a strong shape, and often a shiny finish.
• Modern Pompadour: shorter sides with a taper or fade and a more natural or matte finish.
• Undercut Pompadour: long hair on top meets significantly shorter sides without a smooth transition.
• Side-Part Pompadour: the voluminous front section is combined with a clearly defined side part.
• Relaxed Pompadour: less precisely combed and with more natural texture in the hair.

Common Styling Mistakes

• trying to create volume using only pomade
• not pre-shaping the hair with a blow-dryer before styling
• using too much pomade or one that is too heavy
• distributing the pomade only over the surface of the hair
• completely flattening the front section while combing
• choosing a pomade that is too soft for thick or unruly hair
• not rubbing the pomade between your hands thoroughly enough
• expecting a perfect shape too soon – a tall pompadour requires some practice

Restyling a Pompadour During the Day

Oil-based pomades and many UWB pomades remain flexible. If the front section loses some of its height during the day, it can be lifted and shaped again with a comb and your hand.

A little water or hair tonic can help make the pomade more manageable again. Classic water-based pomades are not suitable for restyling. In this case, the hair must be washed and then completely restyled. 

You can find out more about pomade, its application, and classic men's hairstyles in the Pomade Academy.