How to Use Pomade Properly
Applying pomade correctly is key to achieving a successful hairstyle. With the right amount and proper technique, classic and modern men’s hairstyles can be shaped with control and restyled throughout the day.
The exact application also depends on the pomade being used. Oil-based pomades, water-based pomades, and UWB pomades differ in their consistency, hold, and behaviour in the hair. However, the following steps provide a good foundation for almost all types of pomade.
Step 1 – Prepare the Hair
Depending on the desired result, pomade can be worked into dry or slightly damp hair. The hair should first be combed thoroughly and should not be excessively wet.
- Dry hair: usually provides stronger hold, greater control, and a more structured finish.
- Slightly damp hair: makes the pomade easier to distribute and often creates a smoother, shinier result with slightly less hold.
For additional volume, the hair can first be prepared with a Hair Tonic or prestyler and then blow-dried with a brush into the desired basic shape.
Step 2 – Take a Small Amount of Pomade
Start by taking only a small amount of pomade with your fingertip or the back of your fingernail. Especially firm oil-based pomades are easier to scrape out of the tin with the back of your thumbnail.
It is better to begin with a small amount of product and apply another small amount if needed. This allows the pomade to be distributed more evenly and prevents the hairstyle from becoming unnecessarily weighed down.
Learn more about the right amount of pomade →
Step 3 – Spread the Pomade in Your Hands
Rub the pomade thoroughly between your palms and fingers until it is soft and evenly distributed. The warmth of your hands makes firm oil-based pomades much easier to work with.
The pomade should form a thin, even film on your hands. Very firm pomades can be worked in one small portion at a time so that no clumps remain in the hair.
Step 4 – Work the Pomade Evenly into the Hair
Begin by working the pomade into the hair from the back of the head towards the front. Do not start directly at the hairline above the forehead, as too much product can quickly build up there.
Do not distribute the pomade only over the surface of the hair. Use your fingers to work it in as evenly as possible from the roots to the ends. Then run your hands through the hair once more from front to back. This also reaches the sides and the deeper sections of the hair.
If the hold, control, or shine is not yet sufficient, another small amount of pomade can now be worked in gradually.
Step 5 – Shape and Comb the Hairstyle
Once the pomade has been distributed evenly, the desired hairstyle can be shaped. A high-quality comb creates clean lines and a neat finish. A brush can be used to smooth the hair and bring larger sections into shape.
The best-known pomade hairstyles include:
For an especially precise finish, the hair can first be shaped with the wide-toothed side of a comb and then neatly refined with the fine teeth.
Step 6 – Restyle the Hair Throughout the Day
Oil-based pomades and many UWB pomades remain flexible and can be reshaped with a comb or the hands throughout the day. If necessary, a little water or Hair Tonic can help make the style more pliable again.
Classic water-based pomades, by contrast, often harden like a gel. Combing through them when dry can break the firm hold. The hair should therefore be lightly dampened before restyling.
Common Application Mistakes
- using too much pomade at once
- not spreading the pomade thoroughly enough in the hands
- applying the product only to the surface of the hair
- starting the application directly at the front hairline
- choosing a pomade that is too soft or too firm for your hair type
- trying to create volume only after applying a heavy pomade
The best result is usually achieved by working the pomade into the hair in several small portions and then carefully refining the hairstyle with a comb or brush.
You can find more information about pomade, its application, and classic men’s hairstyles in the Pomade Academy.