Modern Pomades – Traditional Hairstyling with Contemporary Formulas
Pomade is one of the world’s most traditional hairstyling products. While classic pomades have been used for centuries, their formulas and styling properties have evolved considerably over the past few decades.
Modern pomades take the properties of traditional products and combine them with water-based formulations, emulsifiers, styling polymers, and new combinations of waxes and oils. As a result, a wide variety of hold, shine, pliability, and washability is available today.
In addition to modern oil-based pomades, today’s range primarily includes water-based pomades and unorthodox water-based pomades (UWB).
The Development of Modern Pomades
Classic oil-based pomades consist mainly of a water-free combination of fats, oils, and waxes. Depending on the formula, they can be soft or very firm and range from high shine to a more natural finish.
Typical ingredients in classic pomades include:
- petrolatum – petroleum jelly
- mineral oil or plant oils
- beeswax and microcrystalline wax
- carnauba wax in firmer formulas
- lanolin – wool wax
These formulas remain flexible, do not harden completely, and are usually very economical to use. However, because their ingredients are water-repellent, they often cannot be removed completely with a single shampoo wash.
Modern pomades expand this classic principle with water-based emulsions, film-forming agents, humectants, and other functional ingredients. This makes it possible to create new combinations of hold, flexibility, finish, and washability.
Classic and Modern Types of Pomade Compared
| Type of Pomade | Hold | Finish | Pliability | Washability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oil-Based | light to very firm | natural to high shine | very flexible and recombable at any time | more difficult |
| Water-Based | medium to very firm | natural to high shine | often hardens like a gel | usually very easy |
| UWB | light to very firm | matte to high shine | usually flexible and recombable | easy to moderate |
The information is intended as a guide. The actual properties always depend on the complete formula and the amount of product used.
Water-Based Pomades
One of the most important developments in the modern history of pomade is water-based pomade. These products are based mainly on water and obtain their hold from styling polymers or film-forming agents.
As the water evaporates from the hair, these ingredients form a hold-giving film. This can make the hairstyle firm and cause it to harden in a similar way to hair gel. Such products are also known as orthodox water-based pomades.
Typical properties include:
- reliable and often strong hold
- clearly defined hairstyles
- usually hardens like a gel
- natural to high-shine finish
- easy application
- usually very easy to wash out
Water-based pomades are particularly suitable for users who want firm, controlled hold and prefer to wash the product out easily with water and shampoo in the evening.
Unorthodox Water-Based Pomades (UWB)
Unorthodox water-based pomades, or UWB for short, combine a water-based formula with waxes, fats, or oils. Emulsifiers ensure that the water-based and oily ingredients combine to form a uniform pomade.
Unlike orthodox water-based pomades, UWB pomades usually do not harden completely. As a result, their feel in the hair and their recombability are closer to those of a classic oil-based pomade.
Typical properties include:
- flexible hold
- little or no hardening
- hairstyles usually remain recombable
- wide range of firmness levels
- matte to high-shine finish
- usually easier to wash out than classic oil-based pomades
UWB pomades are particularly suitable for users who prefer the flexible styling feel of a classic pomade but value easier washability.
Modern Oil-Based Pomades
Classic oil-based pomades also continue to evolve today. Modern manufacturers and small artisan producers combine traditional foundations with new types of wax, plant oils, and distinctive fragrance compositions.
Many of these products deliberately retain the flexible styling feel of historical pomades while offering precisely balanced firmness, contemporary scents, or a more natural finish.
Modern developments include:
- different wax combinations for targeted hold
- plant oils and vegan formulas
- more natural or reduced shine
- complex, modern fragrance compositions
- handcrafted homebrew and small-batch products
Modern oil-based pomades show that a traditional formula does not necessarily have to be old-fashioned. They combine the classic principle with today’s expectations regarding fragrance, finish, and ingredients.
From High Shine to Matte
Modern pomades are no longer associated exclusively with a high-shine finish. Different waxes, oils, styling polymers, and absorbent ingredients can create a wide range of shine levels.
- High Shine: for particularly sleek, elegant, and historically inspired hairstyles
- Medium Shine: for classic styles with a well-groomed finish
- Natural Shine: for everyday hairstyles without a noticeably shiny surface
- Matte Finish: for modern, textured, and relaxed-looking styles
Products containing kaolin or bentonite are often called clay pomade, matte pomade, or matte clay. They combine the control typical of pomade with greater texture, grip, and a matte finish.
Modern Pomades for Different Hair Types
| Hair Type | Suitable Properties | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Fine or Thin Hair | light to medium-firm pomade with a natural or matte finish | use sparingly to avoid weighing the hair down |
| Normal Hair | medium-firm pomade with the desired level of shine | suitable for nearly all classic hairstyles |
| Thick or Dense Hair | firm to very firm pomade | more resistance and control for heavy sections of hair |
| Wavy or Curly Hair | flexible UWB or oil-based pomade | enhance the natural texture or control it with a firmer pomade |
These recommendations are intended as a starting point. In addition to hair type, hair length, hairstyle, growth direction, and the desired finish should also be considered.
Pomade in Modern Hairstyling
Modern pomades are used for classic men’s hairstyles as well as relaxed, textured, and natural-looking styles.
The best-known pomade hairstyles include:
- Slick Back
- Pompadour
- Side Part
- relaxed, swept-back hairstyles
- textured short hairstyles
- modern styles with a taper, fade, or undercut
Flexible pomades with natural to high shine are suitable for classic hairstyles. Modern, relaxed styles often benefit from a more natural finish, greater texture, and a less strictly combed surface.
Which Modern Pomade Is Right for You?
When choosing a pomade, pay particular attention to:
- hair type and density
- hair length and natural growth direction
- desired firmness
- flexible or hardening hold
- desired level of shine
- styling technique and hairstyle
- desired washability
You can find a detailed comparison on the page What Types of Pomade Are There?
PomadeShop – Classic and Modern Pomades
PomadeShop brought pomade back to Europe. Since its founding in 2008, PomadeShop has focused intensively on classic and modern pomades, their ingredients, and international barbershop culture.
Today, PomadeShop offers one of Europe’s largest selections of pomades – from traditional oil-based pomades to modern water-based pomades, UWB pomades, and matte barbershop products.
You can find more information about pomade, how to use it, and classic men’s hairstyles in the Pomade Academy.