Pomade Ingredients – Oils, Waxes, and Modern Formulas

The ingredients in a pomade determine its firmness, hold, shine, pliability, and washability. Formulas differ considerably depending on the type of pomade. The most important ingredients include waxes, fats, oils, water, emulsifiers, and modern styling polymers.

Pomades can generally be divided into three main groups:

• Oil-based pomades: classic formulas made from fats, oils, and waxes
• Water-based pomades: water-based formulas with gel-like styling properties
• Unorthodox water-based pomades (UWB): water-based emulsions that also contain waxes and oils

However, the precise effect cannot be assessed on the basis of a single ingredient. What always matters is how all the ingredients interact and the quantities in which they are used.

Comparing the Ingredients in Different Pomade Types

Ingredients in Classic Oil-Based Pomades

Traditional oil-based pomades usually consist of a water-free blend of different fats, oils, and waxes. These ingredients provide flexibility, shine, and the characteristic long-lasting hold of classic pomades.

Petrolatum – Petroleum Jelly

Petrolatum, also known as petroleum jelly, often forms the smooth base of classic oil-based pomades. It distributes easily through the hair, adds shine, and ensures that the hairstyle remains flexible and recombable.

Because petrolatum is water-repellent, it remains in the hair for longer and cannot be removed with water alone. It is listed as Petrolatum on the ingredient list.

Mineral Oil

Mineral oil is a liquid ingredient of mineral origin and should not be confused with plant-based oils. It softens a formula, makes it easier to distribute, and can increase shine. On the ingredient list, it often appears as Paraffinum Liquidum or Mineral Oil.

Beeswax

Beeswax gives pomade firmness, structure, and pliability. A higher proportion of wax can result in a firmer hold, although the type of wax used and its ratio to the other ingredients are also crucial.

Beeswax is listed on the ingredient list as Cera Alba or Beeswax.

Microcrystalline Wax

Microcrystalline wax provides firmness while maintaining flexible hold. It is frequently used because it creates a smooth, less brittle texture and combines well with petrolatum and oils. Its INCI name is Cera Microcristallina or Microcrystalline Wax.

Carnauba Wax

Carnauba wax is an especially hard plant-based wax. It can increase a pomade’s firmness and resistance to heat and is therefore often used in firm or very firm formulas. On the ingredient list, it is usually listed as Copernicia Cerifera Cera or Carnauba Wax.

Lanolin – Wool Wax

Lanolin is obtained from sheep’s wool grease. It makes the formula smooth, helps distribute it through the hair, and can help protect the hair and scalp from moisture loss. Lanolin is not a vegan ingredient and is listed as Lanolin on the ingredient list.

Plant-Based Oils

Plant-based oils influence a pomade’s smoothness, distribution, and shine. Commonly used examples include:

• Coconut oil – Cocos Nucifera Oil
• Castor oil – Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
• Jojoba oil – Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
• Argan oil – Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

The effect these oils have on the finished pomade depends on their concentration and the overall formula.

Ingredients in Water-Based Pomades

Classic water-based pomades are formulated primarily with water and modern film formers. They often behave similarly to hair gel: as the water evaporates, a hold-providing film forms around the hair. This can make the hairstyle firm and cause it to harden like a gel.

Water

Water is the largest component in the formula of water-based pomades and is listed as Aqua on the ingredient list. It acts as a carrier for water-soluble styling and conditioning ingredients and makes the product easier to distribute through the hair.

Styling Polymers and Film Formers

As they dry, styling polymers form a fine film around the hair, providing hold and stability. Commonly used examples include PVP and VP/VA Copolymer.

The type and amount of polymers influence how firmly a pomade hardens, how flexible it remains, and how well it resists moisture.

Humectants

Humectants such as Glycerin bind water and can influence application as well as how the hair feels. Depending on the formula, they can also help make a water-based pomade feel less dry or brittle.

Gelling Agents and Thickeners

Gelling agents and thickeners give the pomade its desired consistency. Examples include Carbomer and various cellulose compounds. They influence whether a pomade is gel-like, creamy, or especially compact.

Preservatives

Water-containing formulas generally require a suitable preservation system to protect them from unwanted microbial spoilage during their intended use. The preservatives used depend on the particular formulation.

Conditioning Additives

Modern pomades may contain additional ingredients such as panthenol, aloe vera, or plant extracts. Their effect on the finished product depends on the amount used and the overall formula.

Ingredients in UWB Pomades

Unorthodox water-based pomades combine a water-based formula with waxes, fats, or oils. Emulsifiers ensure that the water-based and oil-based ingredients combine to form an even, stable pomade.

Typical ingredients in a UWB pomade include:

• water as a base
• beeswax and plant-based waxes
• plant-based or mineral oils
• emulsifiers that bind the ingredients together
• preservatives for the water-containing formula

Depending on their composition, UWB pomades can be soft or very firm, matte or shiny. They usually harden less than classic water-based pomades and therefore remain easier to recomb.

Fragrances, Colourants, and Antioxidants

In addition to ingredients that provide structure and hold, many pomades contain fragrances. On the ingredient list, fragrance compositions are usually listed as Parfum or Fragrance. Individual fragrance ingredients may also be listed by name.

Colourants give the pomade its characteristic colour, while antioxidants can help protect sensitive oils and fats from changes caused by oxygen.

How Do Ingredients Affect Styling?

Knowing the composition of a pomade makes it easier to assess whether the product suits your hair type, desired hairstyle, and personal requirements for hold, shine, and washability.

You can find more information about pomade, its application, and classic men’s hairstyles in the Pomade Academy.