Pomade Firmness and Hold

An important criterion when choosing the right pomade is its firmness. It influences how much control the product provides, how well it holds the hair in shape, and which hairstyles and hair types it is suitable for.

Pomades are usually described as soft, medium-firm, firm, or very firm. However, this classification is only intended as a guide: the actual strength of the hold also depends on the formula, the amount used, the hair type, and the styling technique.

What Is the Difference Between Firmness and Hold?

The terms firmness and hold are often used interchangeably, but they do not describe exactly the same thing:

• Firmness: primarily describes the pomade’s consistency and resistance when scooping it out, rubbing it between the hands, and working it into the hair.
• Hold: describes how reliably the pomade keeps the hair in the desired shape after styling.

A firm pomade usually provides more control than a soft pomade. Nevertheless, the actual hold can differ considerably from one product to another. For example, even a creamy water-based pomade can harden very firmly and thereby produce strong hold.

Comparing Pomade Firmness Levels

These recommendations are intended as a guide. For example, a Slick Back can be styled especially smooth and shiny with a soft pomade or with particularly strong control using a firm pomade.

Soft Pomade – Light and Flexible Hold

Soft pomades are especially easy to scoop out, spread between the hands, and work into the hair. They offer low to light firmness and keep the hair movable.

Typical properties of soft pomades include:

• light control and high flexibility
• very easy distribution
• often medium to high shine
• well suited to recombing and refreshing
• ideal for fine hair and relaxed hairstyles

Among classic oil-based pomades, soft varieties often contain a higher proportion of petrolatum or oils and a lower proportion of wax. They can also be used as a shiny finishing layer over a firmer pomade.

Medium-Firm Pomade – The Versatile All-Rounder

Medium-firm pomades provide a balanced combination of hold, flexibility, and easy application. They are suitable for many classic men’s hairstyles and are therefore a good choice for beginners.

Medium-firm pomades are especially suitable for:

• Side Part
• Slick Back
• low or relaxed Pompadours

For normal to medium-thick hair, a medium-firm pomade is often sufficient to shape the hairstyle reliably without making it look unnecessarily stiff or heavy.

Firm Hold and Firm Pomade – Strong Control for Demanding Hairstyles

Firm pomades often contain a higher proportion of waxes or particularly effective styling polymers. They provide more resistance and control than soft or medium-firm varieties.

Typical uses include:

• thick, dense, or unruly hair
• clearly defined side partings
• high or more pronounced Pompadours
• quiffs and structured barbershop hairstyles
• styles that need to remain controlled for longer periods

Firm oil-based pomades are usually more difficult to scoop out and distribute. Rubbing them thoroughly between the palms softens them and allows them to be worked into the hair more evenly.

Very Firm Pomade – Maximum Control

Very firm pomades are intended for coarse, heavy, or especially unruly hair and for demanding hairstyles with plenty of height and structure. They provide the greatest resistance but can also require more practice when working them into the hair and shaping the style.

A very firm pomade is not automatically the best choice for fine or thin hair. Excessive resistance during application and the weight of too much product can weigh the hair down and reduce its existing volume.

Which Firmness Suits Which Hair Type?

Fine or Thin Hair

Fine hair is quickly weighed down by a large amount of product. A soft to medium-firm pomade is therefore often sufficient. To create more volume, it is advisable to pre-shape the hair with a lightweight prestyler and a hairdryer.

Normal Hair

For hair of normal thickness that is easy to shape, a medium-firm pomade is usually the best starting point. It provides sufficient control for many classic hairstyles while remaining pleasantly flexible.

Thick or Dense Hair

Thick and dense hair usually requires a firm pomade to hold it reliably in shape. A very firm variety can be useful for especially heavy or unruly hair.

Wavy or Curly Hair

For wavy or curly hair, the suitable firmness depends on the desired result. A soft or medium-firm pomade emphasises the natural texture, while a firm pomade provides greater control for hairstyles that are combed smoother.

How Does the Type of Pomade Affect Hold?

Oil-Based Pomade

Oil-based pomades do not harden completely. They provide flexible hold and allow the hairstyle to be recombed at any time. They can soften in warm conditions and may therefore lose some hold.

Water-Based Pomade

Classic water-based pomades often harden like a gel as they dry. This provides firm, clearly defined hold, but they can be restyled only with difficulty or not at all once dry.

Unorthodox Water-Based Pomade

UWB pomades remain more flexible than classic water-based pomades. Depending on the formula, they can provide light to very strong hold and combine good pliability with usually easier washability than oil-based pomades.

How Does Application Affect Hold?

In addition to the product’s firmness, application also determines the result:

• Dry hair: usually creates more hold, grip, and control.
• Slightly damp hair: makes distribution easier but can reduce hold and increase shine.
• Several small portions: distribute more evenly and allow for a controlled build-up.
• Pre-shaping with a hairdryer: creates volume and makes subsequent styling easier.
• Even distribution: ensures that the pomade controls not only the surface of the hair but the entire hairstyle.

Firmness and Shine

With classic oil-based pomades, the following often applies: the higher the proportion of hard waxes, the firmer the pomade and the lower the shine. Soft pomades usually contain more supple fats or oils and therefore often provide a shinier finish.

However, this rule does not apply to every product. Modern water-based and UWB pomades can be both very firm and high-shine or very firm and completely matte. The stated level of shine should therefore always be considered in addition to firmness.

Which Firmness Is Right for You?

When choosing a pomade, consider the following in particular:

• hair thickness and density
• hair length
• natural growth direction
• desired hairstyle and height
• desired flexibility
• level of shine and finish
• type of pomade and desired washability

A medium-firm pomade is a suitable starting point for many users. Fine or easily shaped hair can often manage with a softer variety. Thick, heavy, or unruly hair, by contrast, usually requires a firm or very firm pomade.

You can find more information about pomade, its application, and classic men’s hairstyles in the Pomade Academy.